The Amazing Race: Dili

In-country orientation is a key training element for newly arrived AYADs in every country but as our East Timor AYADs discovered, it isn’t necessarily about sitting in a classroom. Here Intake 26 AYAD Jennifer Ward shares the fun (and controversy) of the Amazing Race: Dili.

The midday heat in Dili saps the energy of any crazy malai (visitor) that dares venture out of doors. Noon is a time for sleeping and eating, stealing shade, or sprawling in front of a fan, not for a frenzied race around town. Even the infamous Hashford Harriers save their gruelling runs for the afternoon.

But the heat wasn’t an obstacle for the contestants of The Amazing Race: Dili. Soaring temperatures and high humidity was no match for the keen and competitive spirit of Intake 26’s AYADs. After being in the country for one week, we were all keen starters in the race. A by far greater challenge was navigating around town, negotiating prices with taxi drivers and questioning security guards with our limited Tetum, the local language. Thankfully race organiser, the resourceful and well-connected Intake 25 AYAD Jason Weise, had arranged for Timorese English students to assist us in our quest. The day had shifted from a day of pure competition to a chance to practice Tetum, English and make new friends.

Joined by Megan (VIDA) and Bruce (Volunteers Service Abroad – New Zealand), seven teams of Australian/New Zealanders and Timorese students raced around Dili, completing challenges at famous and useful landmarks.

Starting from the centre of town the race crossed Dili to the cafes overlooking the sun sparkles skipping over the clear blue water lapping on the city’s edge. Despite the urge to slump in the overstuffed couches lining the balcony and listen to the symphony of UN accents, we were off to the Australian Residential Compound, location of the Australian Doctor, to question the security guards.

Contestants were then directed to the main locations across Dili, including the aptly named Landmark supermarket. It was here that controversial, some would say devious, tactics changed the outcome of the race, now known in AYAD folklore as ‘the mikrolet incident’.

Mikrolets are the only form of public transport in Dili. They are minibuses which fit a surprising number of people into a very small space. Second placed group Jo/Chris, took advantage of the fact that this local form of public transport will stop anywhere along a road, not at designated stops. Charging up the road to meet an oncoming mikrolet, they overtook the previously first-placed group Lizzie/Rachel by ‘highjacking’ their mikrolet.

The five person race group had to squeeze past the men hanging out the door, stumble though the seemingly full cabin to seats which materialise out of nowhere and squash next to strangers. The pounding bass that reverberated through the vehicle adds to the general claustrophobia, but for 10 cents a ride it is often the only form of transport many Timorese can afford.

The mikrolets headed to Tiger Fuels, the biggest fuel station in Dili. After deciphering the difference between solar (diesel) and besin (petrol) – crucial knowledge for those who buy cars or motorbikes, it was a walk to Hotel Timor to enjoy one of Timor’s main export crops, coffee.

Stepping out of the air conditioning and wireless internet, we then travelled to one of the most historic places in Dili, Santa Cruz Cemetery. The Santa Cruz massacre on 12 November 1992 was one of the turning points that culminated in Timor-Leste’s independence from Indonesia. The white walls of the cemetery hide pink, green and blue tiled graves splashed among the grey headstones. Together with the plastic flowers delicately placed on the graves, the riot of colour contrasted with the sadness of the ghosts of the past.

The race continued to a local pharmacy and then to Dili Hospital, where contestants had to prove they knew basic first aid by tying slings before finishing in the lovely Area Branca, the beautiful white sand beach just beyond Dili’s city limits. Team Jo/Chris, won the day (this victory remains contested by team Lizzie/Rachel due to the aforementioned mikrolet incident), resoundingly beating last placed Megan/Bruce by over an hour. It was also here that we farewelled our new Timorese friends some of whom we would meet up with in subsequent weeks to continue practicing Tetum and English.

Despite the heat and the controversy, the race was an essential part of Intake 26s orientation. Through the course of the day, as well as providing a snapshot of the main landmarks in Dili, we visited places we may want or need to find in our daily lives in Timor Leste. The day’s experience changed Dili from a place of disassociated landmarks glimpsed in the first week to a connected city. Wandering around Dili also provided a snapshot of Timor-Leste’s past. Both at Santa Cruz Cemetery and driving past burnt out houses demonstrated the sadness, suffering and loss. The race offered an opportunity for all of us to reflect how our assignments can contribute to a peaceful and positive future.

The Amazing Race Dili could not have happened without the hard work of Intake 25’s amazing AYADs, Jason Wiese, Jennifer Kelly, Katherine Lester and Jess Winnall, Intake 24’s Heidi Michael and VIDA Lisa Mortimer. A big thank you to them and our ICM Caz Dutch for organising a great day!